Cold winter mornings on the farm of my childhood began with a stack of hot sourdough pancakes drenched in butter and maple syrup or molasses. Sourdough was added to our biscuits, bread, or any foods containing grains, as a natural and inexpensive leavening agent.
Like so many mothers throughout history, ours liked fermenting a slurry of flour mixed with warm water as sourdough starter in a small ceramic pot on the windowsill. Dribbles of crusty goo often overflowed, running down the side and drying in unsightly rings on the wood there. The sour little mess led to teenaged disdain of the unnecessary additional labors of homemade breads, the complexity of it all and the ensuing irregularities of a recipe with no exact amounts or times, in an age where concrete answers are tantamount to success.
Time and circumstance have reshaped my wayward modern inclinations, and my bread journey has come full circle. You guessed it; there is a messy pot on my windowsill that our teenagers roll their eyes at. The wisdom of ancient dough has had its way with me, and I’ve joined the ranks of home bakers kneading sourdough bread together in the slow traditional way.
Sourdough is formed when naturally occurring yeasts on grain are activated with the addition of water. Left to ferment, the flour and water paste forms lactic acid, emitting carbon dioxide which creates small bubbles. When added to a larger batch of dough, the sour paste “starter” leavens the bread, creating the crunchy, chewy, golden flavor and texture we know and love.
As ancient as civilization itself, the art of leavening bread with sourdough has become a symbol of the pioneering spirit, a rite of passage and a symbol of good health honoring the ways of those who came before. Gold miners in the 1800’s carried starters in their clothing to keep the bacteria active in cold temperatures while they worked their claims, and that is why a miner is often called a “Sourdough.”
Artisan bakers everywhere are touting the health benefits and increased digestibility of breads made traditionally with fermented natural yeasts, containing simply flour, water, and usually, salt. Increased public awareness about gut health and the development of refined flours have spurred on a return to traditional bread making, witnessed in social media showing photos of bubbling starters and intricately shaped loaves, readily available to gourmands everywhere. Some bakers boast starters that have shared in their family for hundreds of years, across continents and generations. Each year, National Sourdough Day is celebrated on April 1.
In joining the ranks of artisan bakers basking in the glow of rustic loaves of traditional bread, I must confess I don’t have concrete answers for a recipe that’s simply three ingredients. But if you would like an unsightly pot of sourdough in your kitchen, I invite you to ask a friend or neighbor to share their sourdough starter. You might take home a story along with a little piece of history, and you’ll take your journey into the slower life of sourdough bread!